This charming little village is nestled in the Sierra de los Organos, and was but a settlement during the Spanish colonial era. Although the village was founded in the 17th century, the mogotes, covered with vegetation and coral-reef like stones (very dangerous to slip on) were formed through erosion during the Jurassic era. Cuban climbers have been joined by colleagues from around the world to tackle these weird mounts, even though local authorities do not allow it as the climbers have to tramp on privately-owned farm land and, because of the high risks of accident.

The mogotes are present here in four major groups, named La Esmeralda, Dos Hermanas, Coco Solo and Del Valle. See map below.

The San Vicente region is spersed with caves : among others, Cueva del Indio, Cueva de San Miguel, El Palenque de los Cimarrones and world-renowned Caverna de Santo Tomás — with 50 km of tunnels, it is the largest in the country and second largest on the Continent.

Recently discovered, the stupendous caves of nearby Sierra Guasasa where non-profit Pinar del Rio group Geda is pursuing its explorations.

The quiet commercial activity — and large cultural — activity borders the main street, Cisneros, has a few colonial and columned edificios but the majority of dwellings are bungalows. There's a sense of environment protection here like nowhere else in the country. And, most important, little motor traffic. One of this webmaster's must-see places on the island.

The hundreds of casas particulares - somesay 1,000 - here are most alike : we suggest some of the best below.

DISTANCES Cabo San Antonio, 197 Cayo Jutias, 60 Cayo Levisa, 60 El Moncada, 17 La Habana, 188 La Palma, 25 Las Terrazas, 115 Maria la Gorda, 178 Minas de Matahambre, Pinar del Rio, 25 Puerto Esperanza, 20 San Diego/Los Baños, 46 San Juan y Martinez, 47 Santa Lucia, 43 Soroa, 127

MAPS & LINKS

Map - The town with casas

Map - Pinar del Rio province nearby - Tourist areas

Map - Viñales Valley with Tourist areas

Map - Walking tours in the valley

Map - Cordillera de Guaniguanico

Map - The coast from Cayo Jutias to Cayo Levisa

Map - The province from north to south coasts

Map - Large regional

Map - Parque Nacional Viñales

Loverly video on Vimeo - Cuba Climbing

Weather for Pinar del Rio

UNESCO - World Heritage File

Plants of Viñales - A pictorial guide

Mountain climbing blog - CubaClimbing

Circuits Oeste - Itins & Top Casas

Viazul bus schedule

Island-wide bus connections

Naturarte — Cuban site of beauty in nature

Plants of Viñales — Hundreds, with photos

Cave exploring group Geda based in Pinar del Rio

Island-wide bus connections

All that's natural in Pinar del Rio province

All the Web particuba.net

POPULATION 27,579 (2007)

PALADARES
Finca agroecologica El Paraiso, 1,5 km from town, on Carretera El Cementerio « It's a lovely organic farm on a hill with incredible views of the 'silencio' valley. Their bio food is top-notch, and Rachel uses some Indian spices in a few dishes, too. We all (family of 3) loved it here. Friendly, warm people, interesting farm to visit, and those views! » Laurie McL59, tripad, Sept. 2014; others are also casas particulares, such as DOS QUE TRES, calle Adela Azcuy 22, e/Rafael Trejo y Camilo Cienfuegos - Chef El Puma (Jose Luis) started cooking in Jan 2019. Worth a try.

RESTAURANTS
Bar Las Brisas (Cisneros 96), La Casa de Don Tomás (Cisneros 140), El Palenque de los Cimarrones, La Casa del Veguero, Las Magnolias, La Terrazza of Hotel La Ermita (nice place, tempting pool), Carreta San Vicente (cabins for rent), Vera (Hotel Los Jazmines) and more, like : Patio del Decimista, Mar Magico, La Pimienta, La Cueva, Carreta de Juanry, La VI Ermita.

EVENINGS
• Centro Polo Montañez and
• Casa de la Cultura (both on main square)
• El Palenque de los Cimarrones (cave outside of town) and three neighboring bars on main street including
• El Patio del Decimista : 3 live bands playing at the same time. Did U say cacofonico ?

EXCURSIONS
Las Terrazas, departs 7h30, Rancho Curujey, arr. Soroa 11h, returns 15h

• Cayo Levisa, departs 8h, returns 19h; including 30 mins. in a very slow boat (at normal speed, should take 8 mins.) By 9-psgr minibus, 25cuc including lunch, 34cuc including fins & mask, 25 more for scuba. Or drive to Palma Rubia, 60km north on the coast and take the 10am boat, 10cuc pp, return at 17h00; local private taxis will get you to the dock and come back for pick-up at 17h (the only return boat time) for 50-60cuc for the car, return. (48) 75-65-01

• Maria la Gorda, 25cuc. Book through Havanatur or Cubanacan, beside the libreria (some books in English), facing Parque Marti

• Cayo Jutias beach on north coast, 60 km northwest via Minas de Matahambre and scenic mountain road. Access by pedraplen, entry fee 5cuc : just a regular beach (and some more, deserted, walking west), scuba rental and bar-rest'rant; local private taxis will do it for 50-60cuc for the car, return. (48) 77-8131 or take a bus day tour for 22 cuc: departs 9 am, includes lunch and comes back at 16h00 with 5 hours beach time.

• Cabo San Antonio : its wooden villas (75$ per night, double), marina, lighthouse, all in a Biosphere Reserve at the extreme very, very end of Cuba, some 200 km from here. Our page

TRANSPORT
• Trains from La Habana "El Lechero" (the Milk Run #225) leaves La Habana at 22h05 every 2nd day arriving Pinar del Rio at 03h50 then hitch (if u can find) a taxi ride to here or overnight; returns (#224) leaves Pinar del Rio at 09h45 arriving Havana at 15h30.

• Local private taxis (now legal with new permits) can take you to Cayo Jutias or Cayo Levisa (Palma Rubia), wait for you and return here for 50-60cuc for the car : up to you to find other pax. Also Pinar del Río 10CUC, Palma Rubia 25CUC (for daytrip to Cayo Levisa), Caverna Santo Tomás, 16CUC

Scooters for rent right by the Don Tomas restaurant (see map) on main street; Transtur also rents near church.

PLAYAS
Cayo Jutias (60 km), Cayo Levisa (50 km), Cabo San Antonio (197 km), Maria la Gorda (178 km)

RIVER SWIM In rio Resvaloso near Cueva de la Vaca (ask around, everyone knows, Cubans abound in summer).

CONECTANDO CUBA BUS


From Havana's major hotels (Zona 3 Vieja, Zona 2 Vedado, Zona 1 Miramar) a daily aircon bus leaves between 8h and 8h40, goes through Pinar del Rio then here at the Vinales church plaza at 12h40 after Hotel Jazmines 12h30, then to hotels Ermita and Rancho San Vicente at 12h50 and 13h10.

Return trip leaves Ermita and San Vicente hotels at 14h stops at the Vinales plaza at 14h15 Pinar 15h40, and Havana's Miramar hotels at 18h10, Vedado hotels 18h30 and Hotel Inglaterra at 19h. Sked & rates here.

67 seconds on main street Salvador Cisneros a continuous traveling on main street - video © sogestour


Twice per day, a Viazul bus goes from Havana and back - via Pinar del Rio. Call it Ruta 10 (Roota Diez) — Click for sked on Viazul site, Fred.


Cuban scientist Humberto Rios Labrada was awarded the Goldman Environmental Prize ("the Ecology Nobel Prize") for his research on seeds, went to Bolivia in 2014 to teach and moved to Spain in 2015 to bring his expertise there too ! © Will Parrinello


The palm and the cross © sogestour •|• Same park in centre, otra vista © sogestour


Valle de Viñales © Giora Szabo •|• Campesinos walking a field © sogestour


Josue Millo is getting a buzz on a rock face (ruta) named « Wasp Factory » © cubaclimbing.com — Click ••• See this enlargement of Reiniel Sosa here •|• Halfway between here and Cayo Levisa, the village of La Palma © Robin Thom Photography


Three chicas with an irresistible smile : are country youngsters more luminous than city kids ? © clapat, Flickr


The mogotes as only angels and drones can see them © Unseen Cuba / Marius Jovasa •|• Mural de la Prehistoria © viaggiliberi


The Che's Cueva de la Comandancia © sogestour •|• View of the valley from legendary spot Los Acuaticos © sogestour


Minas de Matahambre (32 km northwest) welcomed immigrants from Haiti, China, Spain, the USA, Germany, Czechoslovakia, Brazil and especially Japan. There are still 1,000 Cubans of Japanese descendency on the island.Research by Nelia Maria Paez Vives and Lic Omar Miranda Barbosa.


Video to convince local authorities they should give full support to mogote-climbing. A convincing 2-min. argument by renan ozturk on Vimeo here. A fabulous 17-min. HD work of art & physical feat by Ms Paige Claassen here.


"An amazing family-run organic farm & restaurant on top of a hill with amazing sunset views" : Finca agroecologica is recommended by all including Beth B from Chester Springs, PA on tripad 160814

BOOK DIRECT📱BY WHATSAPP - FREE
From anywhere in the world using the free whatsapp app on a cell phone connected to wifi; list the casa name and its cell number in your contacts; then go to whatsapp and add the contact and call. From anywhere else in Cuba, dial the 8 digits of the cell. Avoid roaming : get a Cuban Sim card ready on arrival. Google translate here.

BOOK BY EMAIL :
Click on logo to open a message addressed to that casa in your email application; or right-click to copy address. Spanish vocabulary here. Google translate here.

HOP-ON & OFF Daily town tour & run with 9 departures between 9h and 19h. Unlimited use for the day with 18 stops. Booking offices by the iglesia; tel (48) 79-6060.

VIAZUL BUSSES Facing the small central park with its church at 63 Salvador Cisneros (main calle) Tel. (48) 79-3195 TAXI RATES Pinar del Río 10CUC, Palma Rubia 25CUC (for daytrip to Cayo Levisa), Caverna Santo Tomás, 16CUC

VIAZUL FROM LA HABANA daily departures at 9h (via Las Terrazas) and 14h30 (via Pinar del Rio) arrives here at 17h55  (12 cuc) RETURN TRIP Departs 8h via Pinar arr Havana 11h15 or 14h via Pinar del Rio,  arr La Habana 18h05 (12 cuc) PUERTO ESPERANZA Shared cab in pesos cubanos by the Servi-Cupet gas station village. Spot the man in yellow.

VINALES - TRINIDAD Departs 6h45 from Viñales to Pinar del Rio then Cienfuegos and arrives Trinidad at 16h35 CUBATAXI Départure Viñales for Cienfuegos and Trinidad (20cuc per person in a shared cab or minibus). Drops you off at your casa avoiding bus station.

This is a tourist-filled boat coming out of Cueva del Indio © Elk/Getty Images

This is a beauty-filled panorama of the valley © clothilde g, tripad visor, jan 2020

TOMAS y YOLANDA
Two aircon bedrooms, ensuites, patio
Camilo Cienfuegos 52, 600m from town center entre Sergio Dopico y C. Maragoto. Tel. (48) 69-69-31

MARITZA y TATO
Two indep ac bedrooms, ensuites, patio
Camilo Cienfuegos 42A , 600m from town center e/ Sergio Dopico y C. Maragoto. Tel. (48) 69-5247

LA GUZMAN V
Two aircon bedrooms, ensuites, patio
Camilo Cienfuegos 60, 600m from town center e/ Sergio Dopico y C. Maragoto. Tel. (48) 79-3245

LOS COSMITOS
Two aircon bedrooms, ensuites, patio
Sergio Dopico 9A, 600m from town center e/ Camilo Cienfuegos y Rafael Trejo. Tel. (48) 79-3285 whatsapp +5353642613

TATICA y EL CHINO V
One aircon br, ensuite bath, mountain view
Adela Azcuy Norte Final #61a, passed the beisbol stadium, steps from the entrance to the valley of mogotes..whatsapp +5352453116 or whatsapp +5353030649

LUCILO y NIRMA V
One ac bedroom, 2 double beds, ensuite bath
Pasaje Camilo Cienfuegos #52, uptown. Tel. (48) 69-6657


 

IRURE
Two ac bedrooms, ensuites, shaded patio
Rafael Trejo Este 10B al final de la calle (at the end of this dead-end street) near Servi-Cupet gas station and Jardin Botanico. Tél. (48) 69 69 05 whatsapp +5352409967

EL BALCON V
Upstairs, four ac bedrooms, ensuites, views
Rafael Trejo 48-A upstairs, e/ Joaquin Perez y C. Fernandez, one block from Parque central. Tel. (48) 69-6725 whatsapp +5352714699

CATALINA
Two aircon bedrooms, ensuites, valley view
Calle Segunda pasaje 7 número 8, reparto El Bostezo, overlooking the valley. Tel (48) 69-5571 or (48) 64-6145

RIDEL y CLARIBEL V
Two independent aircon br's, ensuite baths
Salvador Cisneros # 203-C, behind feria & mercado. Tel. (48) 69-5127 whatsapp +5358 23 36 77 (You may book via SMS)

OTHER CASAS IN AND AROUND TOWN : CLICK THE PIX