GUIDES + CASAS IN 4 LOCATIONS

CIENAGA DE ZAPATA
"The Ciénaga de Zapata covers an area of 4520 Km2 (1,745 sq mi) with a population of 8,212 inhabitants, occupies the entire southern end of the Matanzas province. It is 175 Km long from west to east and a maximum length of 58 km from north to south, and an average width of 14 to 16 Km.

This territory has the largest area of marshes of Cuba, with 260,000 hectares (1,000 sq. mi.). The Zapata Basin is one of the largest and most complex karst drainage systems in the country, and from the hydrological point of view, constitutes the emission area of the so-called South Basin. It does not constitute a natural barrier to the advance of marine intrusion on the Miocene aquifer. Its role is more of a buffer or shock absorber.

The Ciénaga de Zapata is one of the most significant places in the country because of the amount and diversity of ecosystems, many of the types of wetlands contained in the classification of wetlands of the World Union for Nature (IUCN). This area constitutes one of the most important natural regions of Cuba and the Caribbean because of the diversity of ecosystems and the richness of their flora and fauna.

Partial estimates conclude there are about 900 native species of plants distributed in 110 families; standing out are 115 Cuban endemics, of which 5 are local. Alas also, some 15 species of plants reported as rare or in danger of extinction (Borhidi and Muñiz, 1983)." Source : Ecosistemas fragiles en Cuba, Zarabozo, Pons, de la Colina, La Habana 2009 Link

The municipality which bears this name covers a large territory on the southern end of the provincia de Matanzas and includes Parque Montemar (previously named Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata (70,277 ha), Gran Parque natural de Montemar (70 km of caves), and the fauna reserves of Santo Tomas and La Salina, the latter with a marsh populated by some 165 species of migrant and endemic birds. Villages and towns include La Boca/Guama (with its crocodile farm), Palpite, Playa Larga / El Caleton and of course, Playa Girón.

Just north of the area, lies its access junction, a barrio built around the once busy sugar mill, Australia and across the national highway (Autopista nacional), the quiet and mosquito-less town of Jaguey Grande (pop. 57,000).

The UNESCO Biosphere Reserve also bears the name Ciénaga de Zapata. It covers 628,171 hectares and its fauna includes 160 species of birds, 31 types of reptiles and 12 varieties of mammals. Lest we forget the bats which nightly swallow some of the (what must be) billions of mosquitoes buzzing over the swampland, one bordering the road between Australia and Playa Larga ; ) Fear having to change a flat tire at 2 a.m. : your body will be the freshest Zapata all-you-can-bite buffet !

On the bay, the mosquitos (called jejenes hay-hay-ness) are present like clockwork at sunset, every second day, when the wind blows from the south.

Last but not least, this area is famous because of its bay of Pigs, the Bahia de Cochinos where a CIA-sponsored invasion by Cuban exiles was promptly thwarted in 1961.

MAPS & LINKS

Tourist & Road Maps of the Peninsula

Large map of the Peninsula

Map of bayside towns + map of Playa Giron village

Map of region to Cienfuegos

Viazul bus service is iffy at best

Island-wide bus connections (horariodebuses.com/)

5-day Wunderground weather forecast

Daily exchange rates

All that's natural in Matanzas province

Photos of diving in the bay of the Cienaga de Zapata

All the Web particuba.net

DISTANCES from Playa Larga/Caleton Australia & main highway, 29 Caleta Buena, 36 Cárdenas, 114 Cienfuegos, 131 via Horquitas Jaguey Grande, 28 La Boca/Guama, 11 La Habana, 178 Matanzas, 150 Palpite, 3 Playa Giron, 32 Trinidad, 171 Varadero, 185

Viazul service is hardly reliable anymore, every res is now big-brotherly (u need an app, etc). Try sharing a private taxi or your luck on its new website here

The long beach in Playa Larga is located in Caleton (where casas particulares are), the northernmost place on the bay of Pigs or bahia de Cochinos © sogestour •|• Buick and chicas from Belgica © sogestour

Click : Park map •|• Regional road map

In the Zapata Peninsula, the largest concentration of crocs in Cuba, and they're all in the Criadero de Cocodrilos a crocodile farm where these kids have caught one ... with its mouth shut. It's an endangered species, same as humans ; ( © unk •|• Caleta Buena diving © sogestour

Grandiose treasure lake — Laguna del Tesoro — measures 92 sq km : crossing it takes 25 mins ! Named by Tainos, one of Cuba's aboriginal tribes © unk_flickr •|• Villa Guama sits on the other side of the lake and is well-worth a day trip : a couple of nights in that hotel would allow the unforgettable enjoyment of the early morning with a bird concert

Guama Hotel can be reached by a 25-min boat (5-km) ride over Laguna del Tesoro (92 sq-km lake) : visit the museum and bar and shop or dine & stay at the Hotel. © unk

Weather on the island (Google) : click to enlarge, then click town to see 5-day forecasts © google

EXCURSIONS
• Bird watching in the swamps of Zapata with Angel Martinez or his brother Orestes El Chino, the doyen of guides. Tel. (45) 98-7545; cel 52 53 90 04 Rate : 10cuc per person for a half-day. Contact chino.zapata(@)gmail.com without the brackets

• Observe birds and crocos at Boca de Guama Info (45) 98-2979, (45) 98-4131

• Navigate or walk between the 12 small islands of Laguna (Lake) del Tesoro and its park (Taino casas and statues of Cuban aboriginals) the Aldea Taina in Guama

• Admire some 10,000 pink flamingos on the lake Laguna de las Salinas

• Hike with a guide in the woods of Corral de Santo Tomás Info (45) 98-7249 or 7128)

• Scuba dive in the tectonic fault at Cueva de Los Peces or at Caleta Buena from the center at Villa Playa Larga (Info 98-7225) or at the well-equiped and well-managed El Cocodrilito

• Fly Fishing - Lazaro Viñota works for the Parque national de Cienaga de Zapata and is an official fly fishing guide (Snook, Tarpon, Bonefish, Black Bass). pnacionalcz @enet.cu) Tel. (45) 98-7599 cellular 52 90 94 02

• CITMA's Estacion Ecologica in Palpite once offered free board to travelers to help research bats, birds, batrachians, crocodiles and all. Tel (45) 98-7119
 

Zapata Pier © Bissingerbooks, flickr.com
 

The contra-revolucionarios were parachuted on April 17, 1961 over the Bay of Pigs (Bahia de Cochinos) in a CIA-supported attack on the sovereignty of Cuba, with the participation of the US Navy during John F. Kennedy's presidency. But Fidel’s hidden air force struck the invading landing squad on that morning as Cuban T33 jets chased away supply ships. The US 5th Battalion refused to disembark under Cuban fire as the small but pugnacious air force dealt a fatal blow to the morale of mercenary paratroopers. Its air and sea support decimated by Cuban pilots [trained years before by the US Air Force], the group of mercenaries were overpowered by soldiers and civilian volunteers within 72 hours. More than 200 died in the battle. Some 1,290 were emprisoned during one year and returned to Florida in exchange for food and medication. The so-called Miami gusanos (worms as Fidel called them) and the US-funded terrorist organization Alfa 66 never got over it and never expressed regrets for having poured napalm on their ex-compatriots. Prior to the Revolucion these same US-backed mercenaries and their owners had control over one million acres of Cuban land, 10,000 houses, 70 factories, five mines, two banks and 10 sugar mills. Hence, in Castro’s address at the 1961 May Day celebrations, he championed Playa Girón as victory of the working class over the exploiting class. In a series entitled "1961-2011 — 50 years remembering a dirty war", Cuban articles revealed the US had also dumped Agent Orange on their compatriots.
The battle described in a 10-min Cuban animation here on youtube
		|• Stamps from 1965, Victoria de Giron and 1966, the Houston in flames.

Barcas of the pescadores, fishermen's bay, fed by the Hatiguanico river © sogestour

No doubt about it, Playa Larga is the HQ of bird watchers and nature lovers who check-in at the park's office to buy a trek, a visit, a walk, a ride in the famous Cienaga © sogestour


You can't miss the "entronque" (junction) of Playa Larga. 'Tis where the Viazul busses (used to) stop on their way to/from La Habana, Varadero, Giron, Cienfuegos and Trinidad. © sogestour
 

Ride the length of the Bay of Pigs' east coast aboard a minibus from Guama Bus Tour : for 3 cuc pp for the day with stops unlimited.

The ride leaves Guama (where the island hotel is located) and picks up riders along the way down the coast with stops at Palpite, Playa Larga at the main bus stop & junction and at Hotel Playa Larga, Cueva de los Peces (scuba), Punta Perdiz (scuba) and Hotel Playa Girón (museum and beach).
 

Endangered Cuban Crocodile, a silkscreen by Judy Kensley McKie

SCUBA DIVING — IN THE CIENAGA
Here's the deal : officially, private instructors are not allowed to sollicit clients wishing to scuba dive. However, it is tolerated — once the monthly quotas for the official state-run diving are attained. And, because the quotas are very low (nod, nod, wink, wink), they are reached within days . So in fact, diving is all in the hands of the "cuenta propria" divers. So much so, that these divers are better-equipped than the state — in their own home ; )

In Cuba, contrary to many spots on this planet, divers are real pros, they abide by safety rules but they do not require official (costly and constraining) certifications such as PADI, NAUI, TDI, SDI, ERDI and whatever. If it's going to be your first time diving with a tank, don't worry : Cuban instructors can get along in English and will teach you the basics in no time, safely. More photos here.

PLAYA LARGA DIVING GUIDES
• Felix Martinez, master of his water domain with over 1.000 dives; has met Commandant Cousteau; knows every single site on the tip of his fins. Tel. (45) 99-7131; also rents a casa.
• Osneidi Gonzalez; also rents Casa del Buzo; tel (45) 98-7396 cell 53 69 74 75

They both charge the usual 25cuc pp including divecheck, tank, mask & fins for a one-hour dive.


CIENAGA DE ZAPATA DIVING CENTERS
• Centro Internacional de Buceo Octopus at Playa Larga Hotel Horizontes with 13 dive sites directly from bayside.
• Cueva de los Peces a few k's from Playa Larga : very busy (too busy for divers seeking calm) spot with 68-diver capacity
• Punta Perdiz a few k's before reaching Playa Giron : more spread-out spot, completely renovated with 100-diver capacity; more relaxed atmosphere; meeting room for groups, restaurant.
• Centro Internacional de Buceo Azul at Playa Giron Hotel with the usual equipment and dives off the bay.
• Centro Internacional de Buceo El Pirata at Caleta Buena a few k's further up the coast from Playa Giron with 19 dive sites including some deep dives in cenotes and caves.

Those who wish to be certified in Cuba can do so through an ACUC course (recognized in Europe and Canada through the WRSTC); details on Course Standards page.
 

DAYAMI
Two large upstairs ac br's, ensuites, bayview
Located off the bay of Pigs (Cochinos) on "Final" — main road to beach. Playa is one-minute walk away. Tel. (45) 98-7145 cell 52 94 10 58


 

FEFA
One ac bedroom, ensuite, terrace on bay
Located on fishermen's bay in Caleton. Beach is five-min walk away. Tel. (45) 98-7133


 

EL PARAISO
Two ac bedrooms with ensuite, terrace, bayside
Located right on the bay of Pigs (Cochinos). Beachside with private terrace. Cell 52 75 48 15 Cell. 58 06 11 74


 

CASA DEL BUZO + SCUBA
Upstairs, three ac br's, ensuites, gazebo on bay
Located on fishermen's bay in Caleton. Beach is five-min walk away. Tel. (45) 98-7396 Cell 53 69 74 75 or 52 81 93 73

EDENIS y HERIBERTO
Three ac br's, two w/shared bath — bayside
Located on fishermen's bay in Caleton. Beach is five-min walk away. Tel. (45) 98-7501 cell 53 11 27 09


 

MIRTA
Two ac bedrooms with ensuites
Calle 3ra (tercera) #39, e/2da (secunda) y 4ta (quarta), close to Jaguey-Giron junction & bus stop. Public beach is 8-min walk away. Tel. (45) 98-73-15 Cell 52 83 04 43 or 54 12 08 88


 

 

The must-visit building in the Zapata Peninsula : retelling history at Museo Giron © sogestour


A local food counter, café & pizzeria in "downtown Giron" © sogestour


Fishing boat parking at the end of Horizontes Giron Hotel beach. First in line, the Titanic : its owner says you can't be optimistic with a misty optic © sogestour


Punta Perdiz bayside restaurant & terrace & diving center © sogestour

GUAMA BUS TOUR
Ride the whole length of the Bay of Pigs' east coast aboard a minibus from Guama Bus Tour : for 3 cuc pp for the day with stops unlimited, the ride leaves Guama and picks up riders all along the way (Palpite, Playa Larga, etc) with stops at Hotel Playa Larga (beach), Cueva de los Peces (scuba), Punta Perdiz (scuba, lookout, restaurant) and Hotel Playa Girón (museum and beach) down to the end at Caleta Buena
 

The weather in Playa Larga.	Tourist hop-on, hop-off bus
MAPS + LINKS here	CIENAGA + GIRON map.

La Guarandingua is the name of this guagua, a shuttle bus for the buceadores and scuba divers lodging in the area © sogestour •]• Caleta Buena, "the good creek" where divers learn the underwater sport or go down to meet the living fauna © sogestour

Punta Perdiz diving installations now include a demo room, tables and chairs for enjoying a drink, equipment rental and seaside lawn chairs for those relaxing after a dive or waiting for their spouse to get their underwater kicks © sogestour

Seaside at Cueva de los Peces close to Playa Larga - another diving spot — the most popular on the bay of Pigs © sogestour

IVETTE y RONEL + SCUBA
Three ac bedrooms, large lot & dining room
About 500 m left at the first fork coming from Playa Larga, on the left-hand side, leading to Casa de la Cultura. Tel. (45) 98-4129 Cell 53 11 73 89 or 53 11 86 99


 

ABELLA + PALADAR
One ac br, patio, great food, roof terrace
Third casa after Hostal Luis on road leading to Cienfuegos. Tel. (45) 98-4383 cell 53 68 88 37


 

MIGUEL y ODALIS
Three ac bedrooms, large patio, dining room
Playa Giron, 15 m from camino principal, behind (and between) the public-housing edificios in front of Abella's Tel. (45) 98-4194 cell 54 16 96 26


 

Palpite is this small town which bus riders cross barely noticing just after going through Guama and its crocodile farm after passing by Laguna del Tesoro and its dock taking guests to the middle of the lake hotel. Road goes on to the bay of Pigs (bahia de Cochinos) going by the bayside towns of Playa Larga then Playa Giron.

The origin of the word Palpite is not clear. Local seniors have attributed it to the noise of water - like a tide - which rises in this swamp-filled region. A population of just 700 souls survive in some 195 dwellings. This used to be the poorest place in Cuba where carboneros (carbon wood used for cooking) toiled in dire conditions in an mosquito and crocodile filled region in Palpite and nearby Soplillar — until Fidel developed crocodile protection and nature protection schemes employing the people who used to poach the crocs.

Bird species abound in the vegetation of the Zapata Swamp. Crocodile farming has reached huge proportions of a few hundred meters north of here in Guama, almost saving the species. There are also muchos parrots, dogs and wild pigs and a rich concentration of gnats and mosquitoes. In addition, the strong presence depending on the mating season, of varieties of crabs, some red, others brown, black, yellow and white.

With the popularity of the huge nearby lake (Tesoro) and destinations further south, people of the area have slowly adapted to international travel (it's a bird watchers and scuba divers paradise) and began to work and established private restaurants and casas.

In this, "the middle of nowhere", a national institution founded for the emergence of artistic talent, Escuela de Arte Conjunto Korimakao; used to cater to local youth, now teaches young budding artists from all over la Isla Grande with volunteer teachers from the world over.

Cuba’s Green Revolution
::: Large swaths of this more-than-one-million-acre area – which stands out as Cuba’s best bird-watching venue – are protected from development. Orlando, a local naturalist, orients us to a section of the swamp.

::: We have barely disembarked the bus when we spot a pair of bee hummingbirds — almost indistinguishable from their insect namesake — hovering over delicate cream-colored Moringa blossoms. Most of us are so captivated with this discovery that we almost miss a mourning dove, great egret, and La Sagra’s flycatcher. And this isn’t even the most protected part of the swamp! ::: Jeanine Barone, Travel with Heart, NatGeo 12.04.13

DISTANCES Australia & highway, 15 Caleta Buena, 36 Cárdenas, 114 Cienfuegos, 99 Jaguey Grande, 28 La Boca/Guama, 18 La Habana, 178 Las Salinas, 18 Matanzas, 150 Palpite, 3 Playa Girón, 32 km Punta Perdiz, 18 Soplillar, 5 Trinidad, 171 Varadero, 185	Juana & Bernabé, Casa del Zunzuncito, the Bee hummingbird © sogestour
Conjunto Korimakao in rehearsal © unk
ONE OF THE MOST RIDICULOUS THINGS
NOCHEBUENA CARBONERA THING 59-09
A BEE HUMMINGBIRD IS A SMALL THING
KYLE MILLER SHOWS THE CROC THING
CONJUNTO KORIMAKAO'S FACEBOOK THING

HOSTAL ENRIQUE
Two aircon bedrooms, ensuites, patio
Calle 2da no 33 e/5ta y 11na, about 300 m west of the main road. Cell 52 25 16 90


 

HOSTAL YULY-YENIER
Two ac bedrooms, shared bath, ranchon, pool
Calle 11na-A, no 14, entre 2da y 4ta Cell 52 25 80 23 or 58 21 17 99

Casa de Cultura	Cine General Antonio	Galeria municipal de Arte	Museo Memorial Comandancia
Fiesta Campesina		Central Australia

GETTING HERE WITH VIAZUL + MOVIN AROUND WITH GUAMA BUS TOUR
• Get here from La Habana on route (ruta) #18 by VIAZUL which goes to Cienfuegos and Trinidad; the bus stops at "Entronque de Jaguey (fork)" before turning south : this is where you get off at 10h30 and cross the highway to enter Jaguey Grande; the bus goes through Playa Larga/Caleton, then Giron town along the bay of Pigs (Cochinos) and on to Cienfuegos and Trinidad cutting across mostly barren land through La Ceiba and Yaguaramas; new Viazul web site here. ::: Local minibus (guaguas) services cover the Cienaga • from Playa Larga to Jaguey Grande at 8h and 16h30 • from Playa Larga to Giron at 8h, 11h30, 16h30 and 20h • from Giron to Playa Larga 3 x day : am, p.m. and 19h30 but don't bet the farm on the exactness of the preceding info (as of March 2022)

SALVADOR y MARISOL - EL RANCHON
Four ac br's, ensuites, pool, ranchon, wifi
Calle 52 # 915, e/9 y11, by the police station. Tel. (45) 91-2039 Cell esposa 53 53 69 93 cell 53 04 54 14